ARK: Dinosaur Taming Guide
Last updated
Last updated
The dinos fall into two categories: Herbivores and Carnivores. Or Vegetarians and Meat Eaters! Feeding the wrong Dino the wrong thing will hurt and possibly outright ruin your efforts. Most Dinos have an Egg Kibble that they prefer, a system that has for the most part replaced the favorite berry or meat theory. This primarily carnivorous food type is loved by a great many of the dinos. Keep in mind that there are several types of Kibble and each Dino has a preference. If you use the right Egg Kibble you'll get a 5x bonus to taming speed.
Another point to keep in mind is how to bring the Dino down so you can try to tame it. What seems to be the best is the Tranq Arrow. These do require a bow, a few engrams, and a Mortar and Pestle to make, but it is definitely worth the effort and resources. Tranq Arrows are fired from either a Bow or Crossbow. The Crossbow is far more expensive but far more effective. An Elite solution would be Tranq Darts in a Longneck Rifle. We have a table here in The PACK that has a 2x Tranq arrow, Bolt, and dart. These are really your best options, but are hard to come by really early on in the game.
Be aware also that the level of the Dino has a very big impact on taming times, the number of tranq arrows required, food, narcotic, or narcoberry requirements. Very low level Dinos will require very little of these compared to high level Dinos. The high level Dinos will require a great deal more. As for keeping it out cold, Narcotic is the most effective and does not spoil. Otherwise, it's Narcoberries.
For the herbivore, you'll want a ton of berries and a ton of Narcoberries. The best results will occur if the creature has a favorite Egg Kibble. If it does, then you should use that to get yourself a 5x bonus on taming speed. Do keep in mind that each Dino has a preferred food, and when it comes to herbivores there are a number of different berry types. Also note that once the Dino is down for the count, Narcotics are stronger and don't spoil, so this should probably be your method of choice.
For the carnivore, you'll want a ton of meat and a ton of Narcotics. Do keep in mind that each Dino has a preferred food. When it comes to carnivores, there are three (3) different types of meat normally used in taming. Also note that once the Dino is down for the count you'll want to use Narcotics. Prime Meat can be better than regular Raw Meat, and often a Carnivore will relish Mutton over any other meat. You'll get the best results if the creature has a favorite Egg Kibble. If it does and you use the right one, you'll get a 5x taming speed bonus. Spoiled Meat should be used rarely, and only with a few Dinos such as the Scorpion.
Kibble is one of the Rockwell Recipes. It is created in the Cooking Pot. There are many variations, but the basic idea is this: 1 Egg, 1 Meat, Mejoberries, Fiber, 1 Veggie, and Water.
A complete listing of the Kibbles is shown below
Below are some Kibble Charts I found around the innerwebs. The Top one is the most up-to-date one that I have found.
The older ones are just here for Legacy. Ark has been with us, and Us with it a long time!
This can be achieved through the following methods: Punching the creature with your bare hands. This is the most basic, albeit least effective, way to knock out dinos, and lowers your health. Punching the creature when unconscious can make its Torpor stay up, but you will lose taming effectiveness.
Using a Slingshot, Wooden Club, Electric Prod, Bow/ Crossbow/ Tek Bow/ Compound Bow with Tranquilizer Arrow, Harpoon Launcher with Tranq Spear Bolts, or Longneck Rifle with Tranquilizer Dart or Shocking Tranquilizer Dart.
Crossbows/Bows/Rifles with Higher damage will result in more Torpor per shot. The Crossbow and Harpoon Launcher can be used underwater.
Once the creature is unconscious, open its inventory and feed it an appropriate food item by dragging food into its inventory and waiting for the creature to eat it. The food needed to tame it will vary based on the creature you are trying to tame. Keep plenty of food in the animal's inventory while taming; if the creature runs out of food, the taming bar will begin to go down until it gets more food.
Force feeding them anything other than Narcoberries or Narcotic will fill their hunger but will not affect the taming bar, effectively making the tame take longer.
Every time the animal raises its head to eat, the Taming bar increases. Herbivores will eat Berries when their hunger falls 20 points (30 points for mejo berries) and Crops when it falls 40 points. Carnivores will eat Raw Prime Meat, Cooked Prime Meat, Raw Meat, Cooked Meat, Raw Fish Meat, Cooked Fish Meat, Raw Prime Fish Meat, Cooked Prime Fish Meat, Spoiled Meat or Cooked Meat Jerky when their hunger falls 50 points. All applicable creatures will eat Kibble when their hunger falls 80 points (for a few creatures it is 135, 120, 53.3, 25, or 20).
If a creature's preferred food is in its inventory, they will wait for their hunger to decrease enough for them to eat it, even if other food is present.
Keep the creature unconscious throughout the process. The Unconscious bar decreases with the creature's Torpor, and can be refilled with Narcoberries, Narcotic or Bio Toxin. Narcoberries will raise torpor by 8 points over 3 seconds, Narcotics will raise it by 40 points over 16 seconds, and Bio Toxin raises it by 80, over 16 seconds. It also stops the creature's fight against the torpor in this time, so torpor will not fall in addition to the raising. The creature will not voluntarily eat these items, and so they must be force fed by hitting the use-key (E, Y, Triangle) in the creatures inventory when hovering over the item.
If the creature wakes up any items in its inventory will be lost.
For certain creatures, such as the Titanosaur, Rock Elemental, Karkinos and Astrocetus, tranquilizers are ineffective. In order to inflict torpor on them, you will need to do damage to their head using a turret weapon. Because turrets themselves are immobile, one may have to mount said turret upon a platform saddle, usually the Bronto Platform Saddle, Paracer Platform Saddle, or Quetz Platform Saddle, or utilizing Unassembled TEK Hover Skiff. The most efficient weapon is the Cannon, as it's torpor-to-damage ratio will be the highest. Although you can also use the Rocket Launcher on Rock Elemental, and the Catapult Turret on the Karkinos. Although related, Rubble Golem can't be tamed.
= Tamed Titanosaur will refuse to eat anything, but in our servers it can be force-fed.
Most of the creatures below can be tamed non-violently. Diplodocus can be tamed with both methods.
Put the food you plan to feed to the creature in the far-right slot of your hotbar. Approach the creature and press the use key (default: E, Y, Triangle) to feed it when prompted.
Lystrosaurus and Moschops are peaceful and not scared, you don't need to hide yourself. The Ichthyosaurus is curious, it won’t run away. For all other Ghillie Armor is recommended. If touched during the taming process, Gigantopithecus and Manta will attack and Mesopithecus will run. Diplodocus wants to play with you and shoves you around. You need to have Bug Repellant applied to yourself to tame an Araneo, Arthropluera, or Onyc and can be helpful to tame the Dung Beetle and Manta, as these creatures are aggressive and will otherwise attack you on sight or on being touched.
Wait for the creature to become hungry enough up to roughly 90% of its hunger ex:36000-40000 to eat again. This can take varying amounts of time depending on the creature in question and the food you are feeding it. Repeat this process until the taming bar is filled. Note that the first instance of food you feed to the creature is akin to knocking it unconscious with a violent tame - it binds the tame to the Survivor (or their tribe) and the creature's hunger will begin decreasing.
At this point - the taming effectiveness and taming progress will not begin to diminish unless the creature starts taking damage (i.e. enters combat or starts dying of starvation). The initial delay between the first and second feedings compared to all subsequent feedings is also greater. Once fed a second time, progress will begin to reset if you take too long to feed. Moving too far away before a second feeding will also un-bind the tame - resetting everything (although its food may take a few moments to update).
As with violent tames, you can bulk-feed a starved creature with an approximately 5-10 second delay between feedings. Due to the complete reset if you move too far away and the fact most long-duration non-violent tames don't have sufficient food to be substantially starved: this trick is only really helpful for taming skittish Ichthys or monkeys .
Some dinos must be tamed with unique methods.
Allow it to grab you while carrying copious amount of Blood Pack. The item will be drained until it runs out, or its tamed.
By default, the taming efficiency starts lower than intended. Having it constantly grabbing and dropping a high health creature (i.e Moschops high in HP) that carries large amounts of Blood Pack will increase it.
You must kill fish and then bring it to the Hesperornis or Otter to tame it. It appears type of fish and, most importantly, size affects how quickly it's tamed. A small fish might give 2-3% taming progress, while a large one can give 9-10% or more. There is a 30-second cooldown between feedings.
Sabertooth Salmon seems to be more effective in taming than Piranha, which again seems to be more effective than Coelacanth. Taming it with fish obtained by an Ichthyornis gives more taming percentage. A good strategy to use is to capture fish with several Fish Baskets.
Using an Ichthyornis to kill fish will drastically improve taming effectiveness (roughly 5 to 10 times greater effectiveness per fish) due to the "prime buff" given by fish it kills. or
Amargasaurus can be tamed non-violently rather than through the usual methods.
Upon feeding it, the creature will temporarily follow you around until either they are tamed (or dead), you are no longer "synchronized with its temperature" (i.e: the buff from Calien Soup runs out, it is best to keep the buff effect up if you are going to this route), or you are too far from it. During this period, it will become highly aggressive to any wild creature that has the Temperament of Territorial, Aggressive or highly Aggressive and ignores any other kind of temperament, and will attack them on sight.
An easier way is to lure the creature into a trap after synchronizing it in order to better protect the Amargasaurus. Some specific requirements must be made for a trap design to function properly such as the Amargasaurus needing to have its head outside of it in order for it to engage/aggro with hostile creatures. Additionally you can not go too far away from the trapped Amargasaurus or taming will stop. A easy and effective trap design that compensates theses factors can be followed with the link below to help maximize taming effectiveness and limiting frustration when doing this complex tame method.
Andrewsarchus' can only be tamed non-violently rather than through the knockout methods. Do not attempt to trap Andrewsarchus when trying to tame it.
Clearing out any other Andrewsarchus and hostile creatures is recommended for its taming method to prevent any problems when throwing the honey and riding it. Giganotosaurus can also spawn alongside Andrewsarchus, and the Gigas will kill the Andrewsarchus'.
To be able to tame the creature, you need to throw the Giant Bee Honey (from your hot bar and not directly from your inventory) near it. This can be done without the need of anything to reduce the players detection by wild creatures because of the Andrewsarchus's low aggro range. While it is eating the honey quickly approach and mount it. If successful, this will prompt a mini game, showing two arrows between itself. Hold the directional button in the prompted direction (left or right) when the arrow glows green, and immediately release it when it glows red. If the button held was not done properly, or after some period of time, it will buck you off from a distance and within distance where it can see you, it will immediately become aggressive. To prevent this from happening pay attention to the red bar underneath the taming bar and hop off right before it is full then run away for a few seconds to prevent it from aggro onto you.
Repeat the above method until fully tamed
NOTE: On our servers Element is changed to a modded version. Therefore it is recommended to harvest fresh element in one of the element rich areas of the map prior to an attempt at taming.
Being a cordial and curious creature, it will slowly approach any survivor that is within radius. To tame it, you need to pet the creature twice, then feed it with Element. Be wary though, as it will try to flee or attack after the first pet. (Note that its attack while non-hostile is more like a "friendly" headbutt which will do 1 damage but considerably knock you back.) In addition, any other Astrodelphis that is nearby may become hostile towards the player upon a feed.
Each feed reduces its taming efficiency. To achieve the highest efficiency, one must feed and pet it in tandem. The faster you react to the creature, the more the taming percentage covers, but the more element you will need to feed it. If it for some reason decided to either stop aggro or flee on you, the momentum of taming resets back to 1 element.
To tame one, the player must use fertilized Rock Drake Eggs on Aberration or fertilized Magmasaur Eggs on Genesis: Part 1.
Drop them on the ground at or near the Basilisk while it is not burrowed (while it will still eat an egg even when aggroed, chances of it eating are very low even when brought close in its path, and it is best to kite it close and make it lose interest in the player). The Basilisk will "attack" the egg when it is nearby one of them and eat it, gaining taming progress. The ancestry (e.g. the levels of the parents) of each fertilized egg will not affect the taming speed.
Be careful while taming a Basilisk, as if it is heavily damaged, it will refuse to eat, only when its nearly full health before it will accept the food.
Even when not burrowed, the Basilisk will gradually lose both taming progress and taming effectiveness. One way to prevent this is to continuously keep it aggro either on you, or on a creature(tested on PC version 322.6).
On The Pack Servers, the best way is to drop the egg from above while riding a flying mount. But drop the egg from your own inventory, for when you drop the egg from the mount's inventory, the Basilisk will ignore it.
By far the easiest way to tame a Basilisk is creating a taming pen with pillars and foundations. The Basilisk can't burrow through foundations so you will never lose taming effectiveness.
The Carcharodontosaurus can only be tamed non-violently rather than through knockout methods. To tame such a magnificently strong creature, one must show trust by offering it food.
Do not trap the Carcharodontosuarus. The game's dinosaur AI tends to bug when a creature is trapped in structures.
When dragging the body to it make sure you run away as soon as its sniffs the air for the body giving you enough time to get safely out of aggro range to repeat the process. Using baby versions of creatures with high drag weight like a Yutyrannus (one Yutyrannus will fill the trust meter and is the lightest dino that can do so at 500 Drag Weight) can allow for a consistent source of trust affinity without needing to rely on the wild creatures in your area as food.
Efforts should also be taken to remove any other carnivores who would eat your carcass from the area allowing for a smooth approach to the Carcharodontosaurus and not wasting a body or time on the trust meter.
The next stage of taming involves riding the creature, how long it will let you ride on it depends on how long "Friend Buff" is active from Carchardontosaurus (600 seconds initially). Once it runs out, the creature can no longer be ridden. Kill as many creatures as you can with it during this time.
Once kicked off repeat the process of gaining its trust once again to reinitiate the riding portion of taming until the Carchardontosaurus is fully tamed.
The Dinopithecus can be tamed non-violently rather than through the usual methods. However, only Pack Leaders can be tamed.
To be able to passively tame it, first the Alpha within the pack has to be identified, which can only be seen with the glowing aura around its body much like other creatures with said buff. Upon discovery, start killing off every other Dinopithecus nearby as they will not allow you to start passively tame the creature (this excludes any wild baby, juvenile or adolescent nearby). After slaughtering all the nearby Dinopithecus, the alpha will attempt to flee. Reduce its health below 85% (go as low as possible before attempting to tame it), and start passively feeding it.
Be wary if any other Dinopithecus wanders nearby during the taming, as they can hinder the taming progress just by being around the alpha.
Equus is a timid animal and will flee when startled. If a trapping/immobilizing method is not used, it is recommended to use a Ghillie suit and duck when approaching the Equus to reduce the chance that it will run.
If Rockarrot is the food item in your hotbar, when close enough to feed it, "Feed Rockarrot to tame." will appear above the Equus. Press E to feed the Equus one food item then press E again to mount it. The Equus must be mounted to continue the taming process.
During the taming process, the Equus will be uncontrollable and may cover a large area. It will tend to gallop first in the direction it's facing before changing direction, and may run off of cliffs or into water. If there are any predators in the area, the interference may reduce taming efficiency or cause the loss of the Equus. If the Equus swims in water for long enough the player will be dismounted and unable to remount.
Grabbing the Equus with an Argentavis, Megalosaurus, Karkinos, or Quetzal and dropping it into a premade trap structure is the most secure method of taming while preserving a high taming effectiveness.
If the taming process is incomplete and the taming effectiveness has been drastically reduced, the entire process can be restarted by knocking the Equus out. This will reset the taming effectiveness.
NOTE: On our servers Element is changed to a modded version. Therefore it is recommended to harvest fresh element in one of the element rich areas of the map prior to an attempt at taming.
Ferox can't be tamed while in its giant mutated form. You must not have a Ferox on your shoulder during taming. There is a rare glitch that when a tamed ferox reverts back to its small form, It dissolves.
With Element in any slot, approach the Ferox and use the element to begin taming. Be ready to run away as the Ferox shapeshifts into an aggressive giant and will then proceed to chase after the survivor who fed it, and will continue to pursue until it reverts back to its small self. This has to be repeated until it is tamed after the last revert. Number of transformations that are required is 2 at level 1, and grows linearly up to 20 at level 150 (roughly 0.12 transformations needed per a level).
Another tactic is if you are in a cave you can feed it element and grapple to the roof of the cave and repeat until it is tamed. It is the same for trees or large cliff/walls as you can grapple to the top of them.
You can also use a Bloodstalker to grab the Ferox after it transforms and hold it in place until it transforms back, then repeat the procedure after feeding it element. Just don't reel it in and start feeding on it. If you do so by mistake, release it and get to safety, then web it again if needed.
Another good way to tame a Ferox is if you can get your hands on a Shadowmane. Feed the Ferox element, run to the Shadowmane, and cloak yourself. The Ferox will wander around as it cant see you, until it reverts back. Repeat the process until its tamed. Make sure that the area is clear of any hostile creatures.
A Rock Drake with it's camo could work as well and if paired with it's ability to climb makes it ideal to use if you don't have access to a Shadowmane.
Fjordhawk can only be tamed non-violently rather than through the knockout methods. Being a species that relies on the right moment to scavenge for food, allowing it to devour the fresh carcasses of fallen wild dinosaurs is your only method of taming this bird.
Nearby Fjordhawks will fly around you upon spotting your presence, waiting for a carcass to be present. Upon death of a nearby dino, any following you will attempt to land and peck at the carcass. Each carcass disappears after an amount of pecks, depending on how much total health it had, preventing any other Fjordhawks from eating it and increasing taming progress.
Be aware that if the Fjordhawk gets injured during the process, either by a stray hit from a player or tame dino, or a wild dino biting at them, the progress resets to 0%.
For a Fjordhawk to peck on the corpse, the dino killing blow can be from either tamed dinos or the player, however you must dismount from your tame and stand close to the corpse to gain taming progress.
The drag weight of the dino carcass affects how much progress it provides per feed. However, Fjordhawks tend to gain more taming progress from feeding on recently deceased Ovis, due to more total health on the carcass allowing more pecks.
You can only feed a happy Gacha (without other Gachas being nearby recently). Sad Gachas will ignore you. Just simply drop something on the ground from your inventory, and it will soon eat it. The larger quantity of item dropped, the faster it is tamed. The rarer the dropped item is, the higher level it will become(affecting taming effectiveness).
You will have to time the drop of the item to get it into the path of the gacha and you can drop a stack as the Gacha will pick up the whole stack and eat them continuously until tamed or out of the item. Watch their food meter when traveling long distances and supply it manually.
It will eat EVERYTHING you dropped. For higher taming effectiveness, Gachas prefer Plant Species Y Traps, Snow Owl Pellet , crafted items like walls and foundations (with metal having higher taming effectiveness than stone but normal stone is just as good as crafted items), metal ore, Stone, Berries, then Meat.
The game will prompt you to pet it every 30 seconds while crouching. However, it must be far enough from the leader in order to receive this prompt. Be sure to stay on top of this, the taming percentage will drop very quickly if you fail to pet within the following seconds.
You can create a taming cage using foundations and ceilings. You use the foundations to anchor the ceilings and make a hollow box in the center. Next add some walls and a ramp to make a more conventional taming trap. Lure the Hyaenodon into the trap and then you can crawl under the ceiling and pet it from there, making it far less likely to detect you. These wild pack Dino’s will spot you if you are not in ghillie armour.
The Mystic Skin Oil buff lasts 6 hours since the last time you dismounted it. It will end if your character dies, is transfered or you use beds to Fast Travel. Note that if you log out, you lose count-down timer.
Feeding intervals are only a few minutes between first and second feed of Lvl 5.
The Megachelon is tamed with a unique mechanic; locate a Parakeet Fish School (also called Microbe Swarm when they target you) which can commonly be found in the deeper depths and let it target you. Slowly bring the school to the Megachelon and they should start to follow it, initiating the taming process.
Make sure that when you are approaching the Megachelon with the Parakeet Fish School, the fish school is targeting you as a survivor, NOT a tame that you are riding. Make sure it says that you are being targeted by a Microbe Swarm when approaching the Megachelon. Otherwise, the fish school can bug out and not properly initiate the taming process.
These fish are easily distracted by other tames, structures and even shoulder pets confuse them. If they do stop following you, even when right in the middle of the swarm, you can't force them to pick up the scent, even munching rare flowers doesn't help. If you go far away, like "teleport out of the biome" far, and leave them for a while, sometimes they will sort themselves out. Your best strategy is to head down and get another swarm
Make sure you kill any aggressive creatures in the vicinity. If they attack the Megachelon, or if you accidentally hit it, the taming progress drops down to 0. Any creature hostile towards the player, try to sink below the Megachelon and kill them there, keeping just below the Megachelon.
Also, Sabertooth Salmon and Coelacanth will constantly spawn and attack the Parakeet Fish School and eventually kill it; this is an "anti-trap" mechanic to ensure that it is being tamed as it roams around the water, though it will still need protection.
You must offer your tames to the Noglin, and it will mind-control your creatures, adding to its taming progress per full mind-control session. This is however, very inconsistent and can sometimes take a fairly long time before it will ever begin to mind control a tame. There is currently no known way to speed up the chances of a mind control session occurring, though if they refuse to attack your dinos, knocking them out can "reset" them and make them more likely to do so.
It is recommended to bring packs of relatively low-damage, durable creatures, to ensure that you will not die from your own tames, nor will the mind-controlled tame kill the others. The Carbonemys is the best creature to have mind-controlled for all the above reasons. It's even quite slow so it won't run off.
Cactus Broth is also suggested, as getting too close to the Noglin after it releases one of your dinos may spook it, causing it to run away. You can use both bred and unbred dinos to tame the Noglin, but unbred dinos give far more taming affinity. Cloned tames work just as well as the original.
Important Note: Wild Noglins prefer not to mind-control the same dino more than once per taming attempt. It is recommended to have several high-level Carbonemys, swapping them out one by one with Soultraps when the wild Noglin mind-controls one and releases it.
The Pegomastax has a unique variation, you must allow it to Pickpocket the item from you. This deals a minor amount of damage, after which the Pego will run away and there is a delay before it can be "fed" again. It will prioritize the item held in your last inventory slot, but will move on to steal other random items if your last inventory slot is empty - food items stolen from other slots or your inventory will still count toward the tame. If you have no items - it will become conventionally aggressive.
Note that Pickpocketing will steal the entire stack, not just an individual item.
Items that the Pegomastax steals can only be reprised from its corpse or its inventory (tamed or knocked out), with the exception of valid taming foods (i.e. those listed in the table below as well as all types of Kibble) that will be lost.
The amount of consumables in a stack appears to improve taming time, but this is not a 1:1 ratio with the below table (Tested: A level 25 took 4 stacks of 100 mejoberries to tame).
Taming Effectiveness is always 100% (i.e. +50% bonus levels) unless damaged, although damaging a passive tame will reset all Taming Affinity (Progress).
It’s found on the Scorched Earth map during a Heat Wave weather event. A modded version of the Phoenix is available on Hope Map, but is not transferable to other servers in our cluster. You may trade in a Hope Phoenix for a normal one by opening a general support ticket in The PACKS Discord.
The Phoenix can be found in a random location a good distance up in the sky (approximately where Tapejara fly as well). The Phoenix must be struck with flaming weapons in order to tame. This includes the Flamethrower, Flaming Arrows and Fire Wyvern breath. When struck by fire, the taming bar will increase minutely. It takes a long time, and If the process is not completed before the Heat Wave ends the Phoenix will disintegrate into a pile of ashes. The Phoenix will spawn from the same ash pile at the start of the next Heat Wave.
Also, it appears that once a Player hits a Phoenix with fire the taming progress does not regress, damage does not undo the progress, and Phoenixes do not lose any levels as a result of damage taken while taming. It will lose taming effectiveness when waiting too long between "hits" with fire. Additionally it seems that no one else can finish the tame except the tribe that started it.
Phoenixes will spawn above their ash heaps at the start of the next heatwave. It is possible to catch them in a cage to ease taming if you can find an ash heap or track a living Phoenix to the end of a previous Heat Wave event. The cage should be at least 5 walls high because they spawn above their ashes, not in them. The Phoenix can fly through any opening except a single doorway.
Rhyniognatha can only be found in the Swamps of The Island and Lost Island. Wild Rhyniognatha cannot be tamed, and domesticated Rhyniognatha cannot be bred. In order to get a tamed Rhyniognatha, a tamed creature must be impregnated by a female Rhyniognatha and imprint on the baby (the creature will be killed in the process when the creature is born, so only use ones you are willing to sacrifice).
In order to do this, you must find Rhyniognatha Pheromone dropped by a male Rhyniognatha. Once obtained, hold onto the Pheromone until you find a female Rhyniognatha. Weaken the female Rhyniognatha until its below 10% HP, and it may try to impregnate the creature if you had used the pheromone on it (there will be an effect surrounding it while the pheromone is in use).
After impregnating the creature, it will slowly drift off. You can utilize Transponder Node and its Tracker to track down the creature while its slowly flying away passively.
Another tactic is to use a large trap of stone behemoth gates in a row to use a female Rhyniognatha to get multiple tames impregnated with the same rhynio. You would build it 12 gates long, with a door at each end and one in the middle, so players can close the female in one end and lead the surrogate to the other to remove it easier. Also allowing a new surrogate to be placed with the female.
Once impregnated, the gestation period begins, during which the growing embryo can be seen on the creature itself when focusing the camera on it while dismounted. Pregnancy lasts until the host/surrogate dinosaur dies or the player chooses to end the pregnancy. Prolonging the pregnancy allows time to meet the unusual food cravings that function similarly to imprinting. Note that the creature's health will determine how long before the creature is born as it will be slowly drained. Prolonging the health of the impreganted dinosaur can be done with the assistance of a Daeodon or Snow Owl. Once the period ends, the baby forcefully 'ejects' from the dinosaur killing it in the process and landing a few distance where the dinosaur died.
You cannot use a Cryopod or a Soulpod on the impregnated creature as that will remove the embryo inside the creature, so instead you will need to move them by walking, or through methods like a Hover Skiff, Awesome dino Tracker, or a teleporter.
The baby is not hostile and can be claimed by any player. They can be raised just like any other carnivore baby without issue.
The level of the surrogate dinosaur and the number of food cravings satiated determines the level. Like with normal breeding, the baby will inherit a mix of stats from either the mother Rhyniognatha or the surrogate dino, but only a portion depending on the number of cravings satisfied as well as the dinosaur used as surrogate. With all cravings satisfied, a stat from the mother will be inherited at 100%, a stat from a 300 drag weight surrogate will be inherited at max 44%, a 550 drag weight surrogate = max 80% and a 900 drag weight surrogate with all cravings satisfied will pass on 100% of an inherited stat.
The best creatures to use are anything with a drag weight above 900 which all give 100% Host Size. In this regard there is no difference between using a Bronto or a Giga or a Carcha, the difference comes down to what stats the host Dino has and which stats are randomly inherited from the host upon impregnation Imprinted stats do not get carried over, even at 100% inheritance, so it is safe to use cloned dinos to get Rhyniognatha babies.
Impregnation seems to operate on the creatures "drag weight". Below is a list of dinos and the drag weight, starting at the threshold of 350lbs.
Gacha 350 Shadowmane 350 Amargasaurus 375 Woolly Rhino 375 Mammoth 400 Gallimimus 410 Megalosaurus 410 Procoptodon 410 R-Procoptodon 410 Kaprosuchus 410.23 Blood Crystal Wyvern 416 Crystal Wyvern 416 Ember Crystal Wyvern 416 Fire Wyvern 416 Ice Wyvern 416 Lightning Wyvern 416 Poison Wyvern 416 Tropical Crystal Wyvern 416 Wyvern 416 Zombie Fire Wyvern 416 Zombie Lightning Wyvern 416 Zombie Poison Wyvern 416 Zombie Wyvern 416 Basilisk 425 Rock Drake 425 Karkinos 450 Yutyrannus 500 R-Reaper 525 Reaper 525 Magmasaur 550
Rex 550 Spino 550 Diplodocus 575 Paraceratherium 600
Carcharodontosaurus 950 Giganotosaurus 950 R-Giganotosaurus 950 Tek-Giganotosaurus 950 Brontosaurus 1000 Chalk Golem 1000 Ice Golem 1000 R-Brontosaurus 1000 Rock Elemental 1000 Megachelon 3000 Titanosaur 3000 Astrocetus 4000
It seems that the Rhyniognatha can crave just about any resource or consumable. So far the following are confirmed:
Absorbent Substrate Black Pearl Element Carcharodontosaurus Egg Giganotosaurus Egg Quetzal Egg Golden Hesperornis Egg Calien Soup Fria Curry Lazarus Chowder Enduro Stew Focal Chili Battle Tartare Shadow Steak Saute Gasoline Giant Bee Honey Sweet Veggie Cake Woolly Rhino Horn Ammonite Bile Superior Kibble Exceptional Kibble Extraordinary Kibble Achatina Paste
The Roll Rat has a unique variation, you have to wait until it burrows down into the ground. Aim at the hole and press 0 (zero) to throw the food at the hole and repeat every time it burrows back in until it is fully tamed. It only accepts Giant Bee Honey as its food source for taming.
Quick Steps
▣ Place a single Giant Bee Honey in the last inventory slot.
▣ Wait for the Roll Rat to burrow. Once it's tail is up in the air, it's time to throw.
▣ Aim at the hole and press 0 (zero) to throw the Giant Bee Honey at the hole. Note that this does NOT make you eat the honey.
▣ Repeat all steps until tamed.
The Roll Rat occasionally begins its burrow animation but instead just unearths food - avoid being trigger happy if you have limited resources. You cannot pick thrown honey back up.
Tek Stryders are "tamed" through a unique hacking process. To be able to hack into it to tame it, you must have a variable amount of Mutagel in the 0 Hotbar, and have cleared a certain number of missions. T
his number increases as the Stryder's level increases. You will be prompted to access a specific part of the Stryder to initiate the process (such as the head or one of its feet), and said part will emit electrical sparks until it is successfully hacked.
Upon activating the hack, a large red circle centered on you will appear and you will have to remain close to the Stryder during the hacking process, keeping it inside the circle at all times.
While hacking, you will be prompted to do a minigame, while staying close to it. The minigame has lines of code scrolling vertically, with green squares. Left-click (ps= R2) when the squares cross the horizontal line in the middle of the game. This will repeat with additional lines of code, keep matching the green squares until all the columns are completed. Successfully matching all the coding will increase the taming progress, up until it is tamed or destroyed.
If the last hack was successful, the next part you will need to hack will emit sparks even before the Stryder can be hacked again, allowing you to prepare and access it as soon as you have the opportunity to do so.
Failing the minigame will reset the taming progress to 0 and may stun you for a short amount of time. Regardless of whether the hack was successful or not, the Stryder will need to walk a certain distance away from the spot where the last hack was performed before a new one can be initiated.
To tame the Titanoboa you have to drop a fertile egg near it, while it is not distracted in any way (it doesn't work if the Titanoboa is aggroed to attacking something, including your character). All eggs have to be fertilized, non-fertilized eggs will not work. The Titanoboa will "attack" the egg and eat it, gaining taming progress. The ancestry (e.g. the levels of the parents) of each fertilized egg will not affect the taming speed.
The best way is to drop the egg from above while riding a flying mount. But drop the egg from your own inventory, for when you drop the egg from the mount's inventory, the Titanoboa will ignore it.
Troodons use a unique flavor of Taming. You have to allow the Troodon to kill your tames. Troodons gain Taming Affinity by earning Combat Experience, with the amount required reduced to 40% at night. Taming Affinity will only be credited to a player if the creature killed belonged to you or your tribe. A singular high level tame is capable of providing experience to multiple Troodons.
Requirements
Experience required: 343 + (32 x Troodon's level)
Experience required at night: 137 + (13 x Troodon's level)
Creatures must not be set as Passive and must be unmounted by a player.
Creatures can be unconscious or pre-damaged (i.e. at 1 Health remaining).
Babies and adults provide the same amount of experience.
Pheromone darts may be utilized to make the Troodon attack a chosen dino, but be careful that other wild dinos do not enter the fight.
Taming pen method
Create a rectangular taming box, at least two walls high with a platform at one end and a RAMP at the other. Lure your wild troodon into the trap. Run up the stairs to the platform and throw out your sacrificial dino. Use a phermone dart on the sacrifice and let the troodon kill the tame. Rinse and repeat till tamed.
Tropeognathus is tamed in a unique way by triggering a way of feeding the creature, it has to be held in position with a Chain Bola. Since it does not attack until it has been provoked the first time, entrapping the Tropeognathus will turn it aggressive against the individual. While its possible to use a Bola on a Tropeognathus to stop it from flying towards, taming it is impossible as the taming bar will show as "Try the Chain Bola..." while it is entangled with it.
A better way is to set a trap structure with the Ballista Turret in one end, loaded with the Chain Bola, and lure the Tropegnathus into the trap via a Dino gateway, and fast winged mount, and chain it down.
Shadowmanes are inactive during the day, and can be seen resting. To tame the creature, you need a filled Fish Basket with 0.5+ weight fish of any kind. Larger fish WILL tame faster. With the basket in the last slot of your hotbar, carefully approach the Shadowmane while it is asleep (the creature is aggressive) and feed it. When you approach it, it must be from it's behind or back. You will need many filled fish baskets for the tame, so prepare ahead of time.
If you approach it from the front, it will aggro. Be careful if there are other Shadowmanes, as even one Shadowmane being alerted will wake the entire pack up. It's advised to clear out unwanted creatures, including other Shadowmanes, before initiating the tame. If it wakes up while you are close, immediately try to sprint away as the Shadowmane takes a few moments before grabbing any aggro.
As soon as it feeds, it will immediately walk elsewhere (they become invisible). Keeping track with the Taming tracking system is vital, as you don't want to be too close when they break out of stealth. You could also build a trap out of stone with doorframes 2 high, and ramps on the bottom for you to get in, because if you walk from the ground to a foundation it seems like that wakes it up. You would want to lure it by gaining aggro and then make it teleport in, and net gun it. Make sure to clear the area while it is netted to make sure it doesn't teleport out. This makes sure that when it goes invisible, it won’t wander off to somewhere dangerous.
If a Shadowmane attacks the player, all taming progress is NOT lost and taming effectiveness is NOT reset. Be aware that the taming progress resets to 0% whenever the creature wakes up by any of your actions, including an approach from the front while sleeping or when you attack other nearby sleeping Shadowmanes, as you get your target’s aggro for disturbing it’s sleep. However, they can attack other creatures without losing taming progress.
The Voidwyrm has to be fed with Mutagen in order to advance the taming process. To tame the Voidwyrm, you must first damage it to a certain amount of health points (depending on the Creature's level). This can be achieved by a few methods.
The easiest method of reducing its health is with the use of a Harpoon Launcher and Net Projectile. Once your desired Voidwyrm is found simply fire a net projectile at it which can be done while being hit by its breath attack or at any other opportunity. Once netted, simply go up to it and damage with a weapon of choice excluding melee weapons to avoid releasing it from the net. One net can last long enough to damage the Voidwyrm enough for taming and this method is best done with a Pump Action Shotgun, always bring extra nets. This method allows for easy shots and scanning of the Voidwyrms health as well as stopping any other Voidwyrms nearby from interfering by also netting and killing them. There is a 30 second cool down to when the same creature can be netted again. Finally you must wait until the Voidwyrm frees itself from the net to initiate taming.
Another method is kiting and hitting it from a far it with a Fabricated Sniper Rifle or Tek Bow set to metal arrows and instant projectiles, but this is riskier. Since wild Voidwyrms take reduced damage, bring more ammunition than normal.
Once the damage threshold is achieved, the Voidwyrm will stop for a brief moment, with small, blue thruster fire coming from the base of the wings attaching to the main body (scanning with HLNA is a much more reliable way of telling how much health it has). At this point, it must be mounted in order to tame it. To avoid dying while trying to mount it, or use a shield if using the net projectile method. Make sure you have Mutagen in your last hot bar slot. It will remain aggressive and attack you. Get to its sides for best results, then ride it when the chance arises.
To advance to the taming process, you must wait for it to do a barrel roll. While it is doing so, you must press E to feed it the Mutagen to soothe it so it does not kick you off, which will decrease Taming Effectiveness as well as Taming Percentage if it does so. It is recommended to watch for the text in the bottom middle of the screen rather than watch for the barrel roll, as the roll itself is incredibly short and could result in you dismounting while attempting to feed it, and the text lights up noticeably.
Be careful not to be trigger happy when feeding it as you may dismount from it on your own volition. You will need very good reflexes for this, as the window to feed Mutagen is very short
These two creatures can only be tamed non-violently rather than through the knockout methods. The creature only wants Blood Pack Due to the lengthy process of getting Blood Packs by default (Either by random Supply Crate or through Blood Extraction Syringe), it is advised to get any Bloodstalker or Desmodus possible before attempting to tame better levels of them due to the level not affecting the amount of Blood Pack harvested (1 Blood Pack/Hit per 50 damage dealt).
To be able to start the taming progress, the creature must be fed with Exceptional Kibble or any of the crops. However, due to its highly aggressive nature, it is best to keep hidden from its view with armors or buffs that lowers the wild creature vision. In order to feed the creature as well however, another note is having armor that insulates you. This can be circumvented with Calien Soup or Fria Curry to trick the creature into believing you are wearing the armor.
While its being tamed, any wounds on its health can be recovered much like any other Herbivores with Sweet Veggie Cake by simply feeding it with it on Slot 0. It is important to keep its health above 80% when attacking with the creature, as any lower will affect its taming effectiveness while its being attacked by other aggressive creatures. More importantly, it is advised to be careful when attacking as any attack source like Pump-Action Shotgun can easily harm its effectiveness to the point of it becoming aggressive to you.
At some point, it will stop attacking, requesting for either Exceptional Kibble or Crops before it continues hunting.
After successfully mounting the Equus, an effect will appear in the lower right corner of the HUD. When the Equus begins to buck, the effect's icon will illuminate and include text to alert the player to press E to avoid being forcefully dismounted. The icon will blink a couple of times and then the player will be dismounted if E is not pressed in time. Avoid spamming E because pressing it more than once will dismount the player.
You will need to feed it Giant Bee Honey manually (Putting it in the right-most slot and pressing E, , or while the feeding prompt is displayed on the creature). It is a temporary tame lasting 30 minutes before it disappears. It cannot be cryopoded but can be soultrapped.
